Mingda Magician Max 3D Printer Review – Now I can print the big stuff!

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EXAM – The bigger the better! Especially when it comes to making 3D prints. The market for 3D printers has exploded with innovations and the availability of printers with larger print beds. I currently own the Elegoo Neptune 3 3D printer which I tested last June. This excellent self-leveling printer prints objects up to 220 x 220 x 280 mm. I wanted to print this new under seat box for my motorcycle so I could fit more tools under the seat. However, this print is too big for the Elegoo printer. When the Mingda Magician Max with its much larger print bed was reviewed, I knew I had to give it a try. Did it meet my expectations? Keep reading to find out.

What is that?

The Mingda Magician Max is a 3D printer with a 320 x 320 x 400 mm print bed. It features a direct-drive extruder, dual z-axis motors, and a self-leveling bed.

What’s in the box?

The first thing I noticed upon opening the box was that it was wrapped in polystyrene. I was horrified to find tiny pieces of stuff everywhere. The Mingda Magician Max 3D printer was well protected, but I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the pieces from different parts of the printer. I’m happy to say that I saw another review article stating that Mingda is replacing the styrofoam with regular foam-like padding that I’ve found in other printers I’ve owned.

  • power cord
  • tool box cover
  • filament spool holder
  • tools
  • bolts
  • additional print head
  • full size SD card with manual and sample files
  • filament sample
  • Pre-built Z-bracket with printhead and dual-sided motors installed
  • print base

Hardware specifications

  • Print size: 32×32×40cm (15.7″×12.6″×12.6″)
  • Calibration: self-developed self-leveling
  • Filament diameter: 1.75mm
  • Printing material: PLA / ABS / PETG & TPU
  • Nozzle size: 0.4mm default, wide range of other nozzles supported
  • Extuder: direct drive, dual gears
  • End of filament detection: support
  • Resume Printing: Support
  • Toolbox: Yes
  • Maximum nozzle temperature: 260°C/500°F
  • Maximum heated bed temperature: 110°C/230°F
  • Average speed: 6-8 cm/s, 2.3-3.1 in/s
  • Control panel: 3.5 inch colorful LCD touch screen
  • Printing interface: SD card, U disk, USB-C
  • Z axis: double threaded rod with synchronous belt
  • Device weight: 10 kg
  • Machine dimensions: 55.5 x 43 x 66 cm / 21.9 x 16.9 x 25.9 inch (X×Y×Z)

Design and features

The image above shows the front part of the Mingda Magician Max 3D printer. There are no buttons under the bed as the printer self-levels using the 16-point touch function, just like the Elegoo Neptune 3. The print screen is built into the printer , which is a nice feature. I don’t like screens that sit on the side like an appendage. There are three ways to get the print files into the printer. You have the SD card slot, USB and USB-C. There is a knob on the front to adjust the tension of the bed movement.

Under the bed and just above the screen is a toolbox area.

You can store a lot of tools in it. Also in the back part of the tool box, you will notice a rubber flap that goes up the side. Behind this flap is how you adjust the plug voltage. It was already set for the American standard.

This is a close up of the direct drive printhead. I have never owned a direct drive printhead. I can appreciate not having to mess with a Bowden tube. This makes the whole printer setup nice and clean. This also eliminates another area of ​​potential mess.

Next, a photo of the back of the printer. In this image you can see the dual Z axis motors. This is a very clean cable setup. The only big bulky cable is the one that connects the power supply to the printhead. Because the printer is so large, there must be a lot of excess cable to give the printhead full range.

I took a photo of the underside of the top bracket. There’s a nice drive cable connecting the two Z-axis motors to make sure they work in sync with each other.


Setup was the easiest yet for any 3D printer (this is my third) I’ve owned. A bolt on each side of the Z-axis towers bolted them to the base. The two small screws on the sides of the Z axis to further stabilize the towers. The filament holder clicked into place. I plugged in the various power cables and was ready to level the bed.

Leveling the bed was as easy as letting the bed and nozzle warm up to PLA temperatures and selecting the level option from the menu. In my first prints, I used the initial flow line printed on the left side to get the Z axis dialed in to the right level by adjusting the Z axis in small steps in the menu.

To get an idea of ​​the size of the printer, I put it next to the Elegoo Neptune 3. You can see it’s quite large in comparison!


The Mingda Magician Max 3D printer has some cool features that allow you to adjust various things while you print. The only thing I wish it showed like Elegoo does is the estimated time left to print. It only displays a percentage. The screen displays a completed pop-up window with the total elapsed print time when it completes a print. It also beeps which scared me! I was sitting with my back to the printer working on my computer, and I think I jumped 5 feet.

You can see that I printed a “scary” pumpkin. It came out very clean and I was happy with the print. What surprised me was how sticky the print bed is. I let the bed cool completely and had to work to get this little guy out of the printer. My first printer from Creality had this same type of print bed, and I had to use hairspray on it to get things to stick.

The next thing I tried to print was a large rectangular bucket that I was planning to use as a bin under my printer for filament shards. I struggled with that. I first tried using a silk-like PLA, but had issues sticking to the bed. The print was just the actual size of the print space. By the time it got to the third layer of the base, I had edges that were starting to peel. I switched to classic PLA. You can see from the image above that the upper right corner had a small problem. I used a heat gun thinking maybe some areas of the print bed weren’t heating to the same temperature. The gun showed the same temperature at all four corners and in the middle within a few degrees. So I don’t know what the problem was.

I used a ton of silk filament and in an effort to get a large print I reduced the print size to 300 x 300 x 380 and finally got a print. It’s a huge impression!

Then I used my first roll of PETG filament to print my toolkit for my motorcycle. I wanted something that could withstand higher temperatures. This is the first level of impression. You can see where there are support structures around the edges of the print due to some overhangs on the box.

Here is a photo showing the stock toolbox on the left and my printed toolbox on the right. Again I had to work to get the print out from the printer. Using 91% isopropyl alcohol around the edges while the bed is still warm helped me get it off.

I have a photo of the original toolbox on the bike and a photo of my new toolbox on the bike. It is much deeper and wider. I can now store an air pump I have under the seat!

I want to discuss a major problem with the Mingda Magician Max 3D printer for a few minutes. After printing the pumpkin, I printed several calibration cubes. In the middle of these prints, the extruder stopped extruding and made clicking noises. I could remove the nut on the front of the extruder and drop the flap to see the gears. The gears wouldn’t move and there was this clicking noise. I emailed Mingda support. I am happy to say that the next day I had a response. They are in China, and all my correspondence took a day to get back to you, but it was always within one business day. They sent me a video showing how to disassemble the extruder to access the gears. I had to make sure the tiny locknuts on each gear were tight. It was easily an hour process, and thank goodness I had a nice little tool kit I could use for all the bolts. I found the gears to be tight. I reassembled the extruder and it started working for me.

It worked for about two prints, and I started hearing the click again with no filament coming out of the extruder. This time customer service recommended that I use glue to tighten these lock nuts. Another hour later I found that the gears were tight. The problem was in the metal box that gets the power to spin the gears. It was just stuck in place and wouldn’t spin. I took it apart and then reassembled it. It then rotated freely. It works fine for me now after several printings.

What I like

  • Super large print capacity
  • Self-leveling bed
  • Direct drive extruder
  • responsive customer support

What needs to be improved

  • Offering PEI type collapsible metal bed could help print bed adhesion.
  • The print bed is slow to heat up. That takes time.

Final Thoughts

The Mingda Magician Max 3D printer is an excellent printer that has many built-in features that can print very large prints. I think it’s about 3D printing in general and not just this printer, but you have to be prepared to do a lot of maintenance and support yourself. You need tools available to disassemble parts and perform maintenance work on them. I’ve seen several YouTube videos showing people upgrading their printers, and you can’t be afraid to get your hands dirty and get into the details. I will give an update later in the year on how the printer is holding up.

Price: $479.00
Or buy: Mingda and Amazon
Source: The sample of this product was provided by Mingda.

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